I also liked the jetted pockets (although I thought you only liked them on tuxes). Id pick between the two on style more than anything else. And in your opinion would a soft jacket from W&S be suitable to wear with relaxed chinos and jeans? Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. At the same time, I wouldnt want to be impolite and ask them to do something entirely different compared to their usual cut. This article describes my way of creating a closet for a character. Apparel & clothing. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? She corrected my trousers and identified there was an issue straight away. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? Next, however, I ran the risk despite your seemingly strong opinion against drawing a tailor away from his natural house style, Simon of asking Suresh to make me an even softer, more Neapolitan style sports jacket. Before you raise an . The quality is similar, just with the price saving coming from the overseas make (presuming thats what you went for). An introduction to bespoke tailoring, from one of London's most exciting up-and-coming makers. Simon I was able to travel to London to meet Sian for the basted fitting. Your comments in the discussion are helpful in triangulating their merits. Thanks for your reply Simon. Thank you very much for all your great advice! I dont know if thats the right thing to do but thats my gut feeling! And no, it wouldnt be vastly different from KH&L, More importantly, for that price range this is certainly the best value suit out there, and it sounds like one that would suit your style as well. Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! On the style questions, eg pockets, have you looked through the Suit Style series of posts? There are cheap Neapolitan tailors coming to London use them instead if thats the look you want. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Through that program, weve rehabilitated over 7,000 women, says Suresh. Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? I wouldnt worry as regards experience John and Bob (coatmaker) have plenty of experience there. Was planning to do so with W&S during their next trunk show. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? Solito, Dalcuore, Caliendo and Rubinacci (in ascending order of price! Thank you in advance. Simon I live in Geneva but get over to London at least once a year sometimes up to 3 times a year although never with any great predictability. Thank you and have a pleasant weekend. I hope that makes sense. Subscribe now and get up to 61% off the cover price. However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. Hi Simon. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. I will take your advice and go with Whitcomb then. There is Mori, which Maslow So is trying to do out of China but thats not fully launched yet. Wow, I think this looks fabulous! 11 St. George Street is a throwback to more elegant times. I think partly it is because you were at the slightly lower end of the bespoke spectrum. Hi Simon, Worth stating again perhaps that no judgments on fit should be made from photos. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! Great thank you very much! Next Magento currency ins not converting and in all websites still the same Great service and advice. They seem stylistically similar (soft w some drape), and affordable. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? To give some context, i am early 30s and now have the income to dabble with a few bespoke pieces; so far, this suit and spectacles from General Eyewear (selected based on reviews on your site, thanks!). W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Very flattering! As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . Thanks for your time, JK. The extra trousers came in at around 350, I believe (I saw a post below about this). Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. hi Simon, very interesting article. Im sure you know, but I think Drakes especially would be of benefit to a lot of readers. However, how far does that extend to? Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. An appealing option cost wise compared to what some charge for RTW, and safe in the knowledge that the factory workers have been paid a fair wage. I just wonder if for something traditional and rarer like morning dress they would be able to help guide me through the process as well as A&S. I really like the dramatic asymmetry in your tie knots. They wont move the button or buttonhole, but they might open the shoulder seam and pick one side up slightly. Because theyre made specifically for each customer, they also tend to fit better than store-bought suits. By the way, do you know whats the price at W&S for a Classic Bespoke tweed jacket? Yes, for the first-timer expectations can certainly be too high, which was the case for me. How do you find out whether a certain off row tailor is really good? The biggest danger is when you get to structural things (eg shoulders) or things that arent linear and therefore easy to describe (eg the shape of a lapel). This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Do you know anything about her? For example, can the lapel width (not shape necessarily) be extended slightly? If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. This is a proper Savile Row suit. I have a coat in a pale wool that perhaps could have looked like a toile? I will do something longer on his system though, so I can give as many details as possible. Im sure youve mentioned it elsewhere but which of the Neapolitan tailors are you thinking of in particular? I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. Any other recommendations? I also found the comments of others instructive and food for thought. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? Just a suggestion! They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? No, the style is different in other ways too. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. I didnt know where to post this question, so I decided to be on a review of the maker. Richard, Hi Simon Hi Salvatore, Not a toile. We specialise in handcrafted bespoke suits that are constructed from the finest natural materials and express a timeless elegance. The Classic Bespoke follows the same fitting process as our Savile Row Bespoke. Youll have to contact them. However, am i expecting too much? Ask them and theyll show you the various options. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. If youre into your clothes, you might well know the name Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Insisting on something still identifiable as W & S, bearing Bob and Johns beautiful fingerprints but of much softer construction, I was reassured with confidence by Suresh. I am planning to order my first bespoke suit soon. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Let me know if that doesnt answer your question Thank you, As a general rule Id want to see the cutter, but in this case Id make an exception, given Bob and everyone else have worked so closely together for a long time. I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. Thanks for your advice though, its useful. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? The finishing on the lining isnt quite as neat but as you can see on the images above, its still good. Explore. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 All garments are cut and made in workshops in the west end of London. And you cant miss it in that bunch, It is superior to Graham Browne in most ways, particularly the handwork in the chest, lapel, collar etc. A custom suit is made to your specific measurements, but from an existing pattern. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. It gets made for a lot of weddings. A bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch, with the pattern being created based on your unique measurements. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. 2. Curious on the lapel width used here. top of page. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). After all, people happily walk into Canali and hand over 1500 for factory made MTM suits from a block pattern I would expect to pay much closer to 2k for a bespoke product like this (which even then is still a cracking deal). The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. I am a long time reader of your blog, and I am delighted to say that I am going to be getting my first bespoke suit this fall from W&S based on your review. This makes Whitcomb & Shaftesburys classic bespoke service most likely, though Sextons offshore bespoke service might also be an option. Thats where John worked until 2010, and it is still his style. Yes, a small change in lapel width is fine. We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. Also is it fair to have comparisons with A&S style here? Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. Free shipping for many products! But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. But then youre paying over twice the price. One of your best suits in my opinion! Do you see any difference between Sian and John in terms of their eye and pattern and fitting quality (from what Ive read on the website, Sian seems to have a more modern style compared to John)? Could you give more information on the stitching point and the fit? Or do you think Ill not be happy with a W&S suit? Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? When the auto-complete results are available, use the up and down arrows to review and Enter to select. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? The only thing youd be looking for is a difference in execution and there are some tiny points there. As they are roughly in the same price range, I consider both of them for my first bespoke suit. Black mens jeans: how to choose and with what to wear? Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? John doesnt go on all the trips, but I wouldnt worry too much about that as long as hes there for one or two of the fittings. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Our bespoke suits are made without compromise by the best craftsmen in Savile Row. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. I can understand why some people dont want a suit where any of it is made abroad. Thanks for this Simon. Cloth - Suits Read More Artisan of the Year 2021: Whitcomb & Shaftes. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. From photos London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your obsessively! 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Tailors are you thinking of in particular what to wear with relaxed chinos jeans. The market are tailored to fit better than store-bought suits the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least initial.
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